Marina, also known as The Desert Diva, is an offroading expert and desert aficionado with a wealth of experience across the UAE, Oman, and Saudi Arabia. As a former Offroad Expert for OutdoorUAE magazine, a seasoned blogger, and a skilled desert driver for TV productions, she’s been sharing her passion for desert life since 2012.
Marina has guided overland expeditions, is an accredited Abu Dhabi Tourist Guide, and has served as a driving instructor for the prestigious Dakar VIP experience. having lived in the Gulf for 10 years full-time, she now spends winters there and summers in her native Scotland.
Connect with Marina on Instagram, LinkedIn and Facebook.
About Marina
Q: Where are you originally from?
A: Scotland
Q: What country and city did you move to?
A: UAE: Al Ain in the Abu Dhabi Emirate, then UAE: Madinat Zayed City (in the AD Emirate again), then Oman: Barka.
Now, I spend half the year in the Gulf, camping most of the time, but heading to friends in Dubai or Al Ain if the weather is bad.
Q: When did you move?
A: 2009 (Al Ain), 2015 (MZ city), 2017 (Oman), 2018 (MZ city)
Q: Is this your first expat experience?
A: Yes
Q: Did you move here alone or with a spouse/partner or family?
A: Spouse and son
Q: Reason for moving?
A: Following my husband out when we got a job at ADNOC
Living in the UAE
Q: What do you enjoy most about Madinat Zayed and the UAE in general?
A: The UAE and Oman both occupy a special place in my heart. I love learning about the heritage and culture and meeting expats from all over the world. It is very safe to live and travel here – safe enough for me to head to the desert and camp on my own. There are countless opportunities for wild camping and offroad driving. The UAE is to be admired for its culture of tolerance; it is a great example of many cultures living and working side-by-side in harmony.
Q: Have you had any low points? What do you miss most about Scotland?
A: I missed home a little in the first six months, but now, when I am at home in Scotland, I miss the UAE and Oman terribly.
Q: What misconceptions about the UAE, if any, have you learned were not true?
A: Many people think that before the current modern country (UAE) came to be in 1971, there was nothing apart from the desert. However, there have been people living here for thousands of years, and there is a huge amount of culture and history, which you should explore to enrich your time there.
People also tend to think of Dubai being the capital of the UAE (it’s not; Abu Dhabi is) and of the UAE being all cities and no scenery – which is definitely not the case!
Most people coming to Oman are unaware that it is considered the ‘Switzerland of the Middle East’, always the diplomat and mediator, and the people are like this too, avoiding conflict and always finding a kind resolution with words.
Q: What are the biggest adjustments you had to make when settling into expat life in the UAE? Did you experience culture shock at all?
A: No, I drank it all in. I was mindful of what I wore and the way I conducted myself. made friends quickly, both local and from all over the world.
Q: What are your favourite things to do on the weekend? Any particular places or experiences you’d recommend to fellow expats?
A: Head to the desert and do some offroad driving! Explore all seven Emirates and find out what makes each one special – I love exploring Ras Al Khaimah and Fujairah, as well as the Rub Al Khali, The Empty Quarter, which has the most amazing dunes in the Liwa area.
Q: What’s the cost of living in the UAE compared to Scotland? Are there specific things that are especially expensive or cheap there?
A: Al Ain rents are relatively cheap, so I would say the cost of living is much the same. To keep your shopping bills down, just use the supermarkets targeted at expats for specific things; for your weekly shop, check out Lulu supermarket and the Co-Op.
Q: What’s public transport like in and across the UAE?
A: In recent years, there has been a cheap bus service. However, the car is king, petrol is cheap, and life is so much easier if you have a car.
Q: What do you think of the healthcare available in the UAE? What should expats expect from local doctors and hospitals?
A: There are good hospitals in all major cities. All healthcare is private and can be expensive; if you become a resident, then your employer will pay for your medical insurance, and the provider dictates which facilities you can access.
Q: What’s the standard of housing like in the UAE? What different options are available?
A: There are many different options; flats and villas built especially for expats, old villas, new villas, and places with two bedrooms are harder to find; many have five or six bedrooms with the same amount of bathrooms. Make sure it has good A/C and also drainage – there have been huge rainstorms in the Gulf in recent years.
Q: Are there any areas or suburbs you’d recommend for expats to live in?
A: Al Ain, like most Middle Eastern cities, is quite spread out, and it is important to consider your commute to your place of work then where your kids (if any) are going to school; once you have these factors worked out, then choose a suburb close to one (or both, if you are lucky), to cut down on the time you spend in your car on routine journeys.
Meeting people and making friends in the UAE
Q: Was meeting people and making friends in Al Ain easy? How did you go about meeting new people?
A: Yes, very easy. There are coffee mornings for ladies and other events where you can meet like-minded people. In Al Ain, Western expats tend to use the AAESGC (Al Ain Equestrian, Shooting and Golf Club, which also has a great rugby club and gym). If you join an offroading group, you will meet people from all over the world and share BBQs under the stars with them.
Q: Have you made friends with locals, or do you mix mainly with other expats? What advice would you give to new expats looking to make friends with the locals?
A: Many people struggle with this, as there are far more expats than locals in most cities in the UAE. You can meet locals at work, when picking up the kids from school, and at festivals and events, and they are very friendly.
Learn in advance their cultural norms; for example, men should not offer to shake the hand of a local lady unless she extends hers first, and prepare to be polite, calm and friendly. You will be amazed how many doors open for you.
Working in the UAE
Q: How easy or difficult was getting a work permit or visa? Did you tackle the visa process yourself, or did you enlist the services of an immigration consultant?
A: My husband was the one working, and his company arranged everything; this is the norm. Once his visa was in place, he could sponsor me. I eventually opened up my own company, using a freezone consultant, although I would not recommend this. It is better to go with a consultant who is not tied to one freezone and, therefore, free to help you choose the best options.
Q: How does the work culture in the UAE differ from Scotland?
A: Often longer hours and shorter annual holidays; however, there are two or three long breaks around the Eids and National Day when getting away for a short break is possible.
Note that the UAE’s weekend is now from Friday at noon until the start of work on Monday (except for Sharjah, which has a three-day weekend); Oman and Saudi Arabia still have Friday/Saturday as their weekends.
Family and children in the UAE
Q: How has your partner adjusted to your new home?
A: He worked offshore, and when he was back onshore, I would drag him off on long breaks to the northern Emirates or to Oman! He did like our small villa, though; he also loved offroading and meeting various people. He has now retired and returned to Scotland full-time, but he lets me head back to the Gulf to run more tours with local partners each winter.
Q: What are your favourite family attractions and activities in Al Ain?
A: In Al Ain: Jebel Hafeet, Al Muwaiji Fort, Hili Oasis.
In Oman: Jebel Akhdar (green mountain), Salalah and Masairah Island!
Final thoughts
Q: Any advice you’d like to offer to new arrivals in the UAE?
A: Go with an open mind; Middle Eastern countries do things a little differently from home, many of them better than home, but some processes require a little patience! Be polite and kind at all times. The people are lovely, the weather is great for eight or nine months of the year, and the rest of the Gulf and indeed Asia/Europe is easy to reach for short vacations!
Q: Any words of caution to new arrivals in the UAE?
A: It is very easy to become carried away with a large, tax-free salary and to find yourself trying to keep up with other, longer-established expats. Try to live within your means and stay out of debt; you don’t need a brand new car, a villa with more bedrooms than people in your family, or to attend a brunch each weekend. Many people leave the UAE in debt, and if not cleared, it may follow you home or prevent future visits or stopovers in the Gulf.
Once you have your home and your life set up, I’d recommend you make a plan to save some wages; if things go wrong, as they sometimes do, for instance, losing a job, becoming ill, or having a bad road accident, you may have to leave the country within 30 days! Aim to have six months of expenses in a bank account! There are plenty of low-cost activities, including family adventures, that will allow you to make fantastic memories but will not break the bank!
Ladies, please be aware that joint bank accounts will be frozen if anything happens to your husband/partner. So, have your own savings account in a bank that is different from your normal one as a safety net in case you need it.
Make yourself aware of the country’s rules regarding driving, visas, behaviour and cultural norms, and this will help to keep your stay trouble-free.
Be aware that there are many CCTVs monitoring the movements of people in all Gulf countries; however, so long as you are not doing anything wrong or illegal, there is no need to worry about this. Rather, the fact that the police and authorities know what is happening keeps the country safe for us to enjoy as part of our expat experience.
Q: Are there any unusual cultural nuances about life in the region?
It’s rude to say ‘no’ to a local, for instance, if they ask you into their home for qahwa (coffee). If you don’t have time, then say ‘Marra thaniya, insha’Allah’ (Next time, God willing), and this will be acceptable.
When out and about in rural areas, then please dress modestly. Cover from the neck to below the knee, to just above the elbow, ideally in loose clothing, which is also much more comfortable in hot weather!
When you compliment a local on their new car, their new home, etc, follow up with ‘masha’Allah’ (God has blessed you). Otherwise, they may think you are jealous and would want to take away their good fortune.
You will be called ‘dear’ by locals; their word habibi (m) or habibti (f) translates to dear in English, and can also mean friend, even a good friend, or love, depending on how it is said.
Always have some small notes to tip taxi drivers, food delivery bikers and indeed anyone with a low-paying job who helps you; 10 dirhams is not much to you, but it means a lot to them.
►Interviewed on August 2024
